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Soupe au Pistou (Weeknight French Vegetable Soup with Basil Pesto)

A weeknight soupe au pistou: Provençal vegetable soup with zucchini, green beans, white beans and small pasta like ditalini, finished off the heat with a fresh basil and Parmesan pesto.

Ingredients

For the soup

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 cup diced carrot (about 2 carrots)
  • 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, plus more to finish (use half as much if using Morton)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 ounces zucchini or summer squash, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 4 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 cup diced ripe tomato, or 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
  • 6 cups water or light chicken broth (or combination of both, I use 2 cups chicken broth plus 4 cups water)
  • 1 1/2 cups cooked white beans (cannellini or gigante, or one 15-ounce can, drained and rinsed)
  • 1 cup dry ditalini or other small pasta such as acini de pepe

For the pistou

  • 2 cups lightly packed basil leaves
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
  • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano, plus more for serving
  • Freshly ground black pepper

For serving

  • Crusty bread

Instructions

  1. Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, salt and a few twists of black pepper and cook, stirring now and then, until the onion slumps and turns translucent, about 8 minutes.
  2. Add the zucchini, green beans and tomato and cook until the tomato loses its shape and looks like sauce clinging to the vegetables, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the water and broth combination, bring to a bare simmer, and cook until the carrot gives easily to a spoon pressed against the side of the pot, about 10 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, make the pistou (pesto). Pound the garlic and salt in a mortar until smooth, then add the basil in batches and work it to a rough, bright green paste that smells sharply of basil and garlic. Stir in the oil, the Parmigiano and a couple of grinds of black pepper. (Food processor: pulse rather than run, and scrape down twice, so the basil stays green.)
  4. Add the white beans and pasta and simmer until the pasta is just past al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. It keeps softening in the broth, so pull it a touch early. Taste and salt generously. It should taste seasoned and a little flat before the pistou goes in.
  5. Take the pot off the heat and let it settle a minute below a simmer, then stir in about two-thirds of the pistou. It should turn fragrant and green in one stir.
  6. Serve with the remaining pistou at the table, plus more Parmigiano, black pepper and crusty bread.

Notes

  • Stir the pistou in off the heat. Basil in simmering liquid goes dull.
  • Salt the soup hard before the pistou. Water-based soup needs more than you think.
  • Leave the cheese out of the pistou and the soup is vegan.
  • For the next day: he pistou fades in the fridge. Hold back a few spoonfuls in a jar under a film of olive oil and stir into each reheated bowl fresh.
  • Leftover soup keeps 3 days refrigerated. The pasta will soften; add a splash of water when reheating.

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