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Crispy Eggplant Carbonara (No Pork)

Cubes of eggplant fried until dark and crispy at the edges stand in for guanciale in this late-summer carbonara. A spoon of white miso in the yolks brings back the depth.

Ingredients

For the eggplant

  • 1 large globe eggplant (about 1 1/4 pounds / 570g), cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 4 cups)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt (use half as much if using Morton), plus more for the pasta water
  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch
  • 1/3 cup avocado oil, plus more as needed
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced

For the carbonara

  • 1 pound mezze rigatoni
  • 4 large egg yolks (save the whites for your morning scramble the next day!)
  • 1 large whole egg
  • 1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano (about 3 ounces / 85g), plus more for serving
  • 1 tablespoon white (shiro) miso
  • 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper, divided, plus more for serving

Instructions

  1. Toss the eggplant with the 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in a colander set over a bowl and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes, until beads of moisture have surfaced and the cubes look slightly slumped. Spread on a towel and press dry with a second towel. Transfer to a bowl, sprinkle with the cornstarch, and toss until every piece looks matte with no visible white patches.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high until it shimmers and a test cube sizzles on contact. Add half the eggplant in a single layer and let it sit undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes, until the undersides are golden. Stir, then continue cooking, stirring every couple of minutes, until the cubes have shrunk by about a third, turned deep mahogany with glassy edges, and feel custardy in the center when pressed with a spoon, 10 to 12 minutes total. Transfer paper towel-lined plate and sprinkle with kosher salt immediately. Add a tablespoon or two more oil if the pan looks dry and repeat with the remaining eggplant. 
  3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously. Cook the rigatoni until just shy of al dente, about 2 minutes less than the package directs. Before draining, scoop out 2 cups of the pasta water and set aside.
  4. While the pasta cooks, whisk the egg yolks, whole egg, pecorino, miso and 1 teaspoon of the pepper in a large bowl until it forms a thick, grainy paste. Whisk in 2 tablespoons of the hot pasta water to loosen it to a pourable custard.
  5. Dry out the pasta pot and return to medium heat with 1 tablespoon of avocado oil. Add half the fried eggplant, the garlic and the remaining 1 teaspoon pepper. Cook for about a minute, until the garlic smells toasty and the pepper is fragrant. Add the drained pasta and 1/4 cup of the pasta water and toss.
  6. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Pour the egg mixture over the pasta and toss constantly and quickly, adding pasta water a splash at a time, for 1 to 2 minutes, until the sauce turns glossy and clings to the rigatoni like a thin crème anglaise. Pull the pan off the heat the moment it looks right; residual heat will finish it. If it looks tight, add more water. If it looks thin, keep tossing off the heat and it will come together.
  7. Divide among bowls and top with the remaining crispy eggplant, more pecorino and a few grinds of black pepper. Serve immediately.

Notes

  • Salt: the salted eggplant, pecorino and miso season the dish fully. It should not need added salt at the end. Adjust with pepper and cheese instead.
  • Cheese: Parmesan works in place of pecorino and melts a bit more smoothly, though the dish will be milder. 
  • Eggplant: Japanese or Chinese eggplant are a good swap.
  • Leftovers: best eaten immediately. 

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